Skewed priorities

Ah, the priorities of the government of Azerbaijan were on display again this week, as it was revealed that it had spent thousands of manat to import olive trees. A total of 3,000 bushes and 300 trees were imported to be planted in Baku's National Park, an expenditure that could easily exceed $3 million if each one costs $100, a very conservative estimate. Of course, this excludes customs duties, etc.

It reminds me the expenses I saw daily when I walked in this park. Very beautiful, yes. Always with some project underway. New paving stones laid down - before the old ones are hardly worn. New plantings every week. The government seemed quite willing to invest in the cosmetics of the park, but very unwilling to invest in the people in Azerbaijan.

Let's not be offensive!

As we learn from a recent RFE article, the journalists from Yeni Musavat are the latest members of the press to come under pressure in Azerbaijan. While the journalists aren't under fire from the government, the source of their problems is damn close. The president's brother - Jalal Aliyev - said he was offended by an article an article that claimed some unfinished buildings in the capital belong to him. The article also maintained that no one complains about their incomplete status because they're owned by the president's brother.

Makes sense to me - but Jalal is offended by this assertion.

I'm reminded of a few things.

1. The many construction sites all over Baku - sites that grew like mushrooms, in defiance of any understanding of the law of supply and demand. Who was going to live in these luxury apartments? Everyone just assumed that construction was some not so secret way of money laundering.

2. The conversation I had with a newspaper editor in the country, not long after I moved there. In our conversations, at a certain point he referred to another newspaper being owned by the family. I asked "what family?" "The family," he informed me, was the term referring to the president's family. It's not like the president himself owned all that much - but rather the holdings were like some sort of large & extended business.

So - his brother is in the family & he owns a bunch of buildings.

Surprised? I'm not.

Indy printing co. in Baku plans to close

I had disturbing news today from my friend Shahbaz Khuduoglu, owner of the Chap Evi Printing House in Baku. He announced this week that his business is in danger of closing after losing its largest client, the Yeni Musavat Newspaper. That newspaper is now taking its business to the Azerbaijan Printing House.

Yeni Musavat is one of the largest opposition newspapers. I don’t know much about the Azerbaijan Printing House, other than it raised its rates for newspaper publishing a year ago. And I know that the general director of the printing company also happens to sit in parliament, an elected member of the president's political party. What does it mean when one of the main opposition papers shifts its account to a business run by a political ally of the president? I'll let you figure that out.

Shahbaz has printed everything from Harry Potter books to dry legal commentaries. He is an independent publisher, and he used to work as an independent journalist. This is not the first obstacle he’s faced. A few months ago, I was in a meeting where we discussed trying to assist Shahbaz with a grant to buy presses to replace the antiques now used by the business. The power distribution company Barmek tried to cut off electricity to Chap Evi four years ago. Simultaneously, the landlord was trying to evict the company.

But the main problem stems from the central government. The Azerbaijan government fears independent thought, and will continue to suppress it wherever possible.

Here’s a little article on the subject written on the web page of the Institute For Reporters Freedom And Safety.

Baku morning

Morning stroll

One of my favorite aspects of my apartment in Baku is its location. My apartment overlooks a small park next to the Old City, and it is a short walk from the boulevard by the sea. This promenade, which was created in the early years of the 20th century, is one of the most popular strolling places in the city. In the evening, hundreds of people walk the length of the area, which has now been designated as a national park. At the far end, a new Olympic-style training facility is being built. At the other end are the working shipping docks. In between are amusement parks, restaurants and cafes, flowering trees and gardens. Two crumbling piers also jut out from the promenade, nice places to fish, chat, or just watch the sunrise.

In the summer, this is where I get a good part of my exercise. While running for health is not really a part of Azerbaijani culture, it is accepted on the boulevard, especially in the morning. Later, the day will get so warm that exercise is not very pleasant. But at seven a.m., the temperature is tolerable, about 75 degrees. When the air is still, the smell of oil hangs over the bay, but you get used to that.

Here are some shots I took on my morning jaunt today.